Garland Star crown imperial: orange bells beneath a green crown

Your care table

A crown rising above the spring border

Garland Star bears large orange bells beneath a striking tuft of green leaves. The flowers hang in a group around the upper stem. Reddish and yellow nuances give depth to the colour. Narrow green leaves stand below on a sturdy darker stem. At about ninety to a hundred centimetres in flower, this crown imperial forms a tall accent among lower spring plants. A calm background reveals its shape. It needs a place where the whole plant can stay visible rather than disappearing behind already dense shrub foliage.

Five bulbs with space to develop

The assortment contains five bulbs for planting. The scene shows the later mature flowering stage, not a flowering delivery. Use them in a loose group or spread them among suitable border positions. The RHS gives about thirty centimetres spacing as a guide for crown imperials. Choose the position first and assess its effect from a path or seat. Later neighbours may accompany the emerging shoots, but should not crowd each stem from the start. Containers and decoration in the scene are examples.

A good position begins below the surface

Choose a warm sunny position with deep fertile soil and good drainage. Soil structure is crucial because large bulbs need space below the surface too. Check that rain drains in deeper layers. A heavy wet hollow is unfavourable. A suitably constructed raised bed may be an option when the original garden soil is unsuitable. It should function as a whole rather than creating just a small gravel-filled planting hole. Plan for the dormant summer position too.

Choose depth according to bulb and soil

Plant in early autumn when soil is workable. Specialist guidance differs on depth: de Jager gives fifteen centimetres for large bulbs, while RHS recommends at least thirty centimetres for crown imperials in gardens and warns against shallow planting. Use packaging instructions together with the actual bulb and suitable soil depth. Do not force sensitive bulbs into tight holes. A slightly sideways position is sometimes recommended; it does not replace working drainage. Mark the planting site so later garden work does not strike the dormant bulb.

Nourishment during vigorous new growth

The above-ground part develops quickly in spring. In dry conditions, check moisture around the roots and water as needed. Already wet soil requires no extra water. RHS describes supplemental nourishment during emerging growth, respecting the fertiliser label’s dose and frequency. Consider soil and existing reserves first. Do not wait until stems are completely finished flowering to assess nourishment. A single nutrient does not explain every flowering problem; light, depth, soil and bulb condition must be considered too.

Leaf care continues after the crown

After the orange flowers finish, let the green foliage complete its work. Do not immediately remove the whole stem. Only naturally fading and dead parts are removed later. Lower neighbours may carry the border forward as crown imperial dies back in early summer. Check new growth for feeding damage when needed; slugs and lily beetles may occur. The bulbs are ornamental plants, not intended for eating. Wear gloves when handling. A whole-plant photograph in the plant book helps estimate the space needed next spring.

Gently support an established group

Crown imperials are perennial and may form larger groups in a suitable place. Weaker flowering later need not immediately lead to constant moving. First check changes in the border, soil, planting depth and previous care. When moving is necessary, lift the dormant plant carefully and replant in a well-prepared position. It may then need time to establish. Record observations over several years. This shows whether the orange crown fits permanently into the garden scene or its conditions still need adjustment.

One plant, several views

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